Gorgeous trees with graceful trunks and luxurious crowns of velvet roses only at first glance seem unreal fabulous exotic. In fact, they are available to all flower growers. Moreover, they differ from ordinary species only by trimming, winter preparation and installation of supports. We will understand in more detail how to make a standard rose yourself and what is needed for this.
What are these roses
Many beginners, mistaken, believe that this type of flower is a separate garden group. Although in fact it is just a reception of floral art that skillful rose growers have created to emphasize the beauty and sophistication of these unsurpassed fragrant plants.
Did you know? There is no people in the world who would not bow to roses. For example, Muslims equate delicate buds with the gift of God and never allow themselves to stomp the fallen petals with their feet.
Undoubtedly, standard roses attract to themselves their extraordinary form and are of interest to find out what it is. Creating a similar beauty, gardeners try to evenly give decorativeness to all sides of the tree. 
In addition, it should blend harmoniously into the overall landscape of the garden. But you don’t have to worry about it at all.
Shtamby perfectly combined in group plantings with identical and bush roses, look single on lawns and mixborders. Often in roses, roses of varying height are arranged, thus forming an effective multi-tiered cascade.
There is no such place in the garden where a standard rose would be superfluous, in landscape design it is an invaluable exotic decoration, as is evident from the photos below.
Moreover, it can be made from any type and type of culture: even from tea-hybrid, miniature, large-color, floribunda, English "taverns" or from ground-covering and weeping small-colored roses.
Did you know? Cleopatra is remembered in history not only as a wise Egyptian queen and beauty, but also as a zealous fan of roses. No banquet with her participation could not do without these lovely flowers. Their petals decorated the floor, where the queen was supposed to step. On special occasions, this petal flooring reached a height of half a meter. Cleopatra also loved to watch the waves of rose petals while walking on the gallery.
How to choose seedlings when buying
From the quality of the seedling depends on the decorativeness and the potential of the trunk. Therefore, before choosing, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of the proposed range.
The purchase is recommended to make in specialized garden stores or nurseries, where you can also get expert advice.
Popular among gardeners are such varieties of roses as "Sophia Loren", "Pierre de Ronsard", "Double Delight", "Falstaff", "Rugoza".
Feel free to ask a lot of uncomfortable questions. Suspicion should cause ignorance sellers of their goods.
The firstwhat consultants should be asked about - seedling age. Two-year specimens are considered more promising, since they already have a well-developed root system and a strong stem.
Note It stands on the garden group of the favorite variety. Further cultivation and care requirements depend on it. Be sure to ask about the stock, because its characteristics play a significant role in creating a flowering rosewood. 
Wicked stuff For stock, experienced growers consider roses cinnamon and rubiginosis. This position is substantiated by dense growth, loose wood structure and strongly thorny sprouts.
Important! Spotting, dry or stale root processes, darkened zones on the trunk and roots, cracks and faults at the site of vaccination indicate poor quality of the seedling.High-quality seedling shtambovoy roses has:
- an even, smooth bob (without sagging, stains, abrasions and other injuries of any nature), up to 1 cm in diameter for common species, and up to 2 cm for weeping;
- evenly developed crown, which is based on 2-3 powerful sprouts;
- two or more grafts in the crown (only in such conditions the tree will be lush);
- lignified sprouts;
- closed rhizome (such instances are always fresh and easily take root in a new place).
Experienced rose growers share their own experience in creating standard roses. To do this, it is necessary to form a shrub on the briar trunk with a budding method or grafting with a bud-eye.
Choosing the right place
Wherever you plant a standard rose on your plot, it will look spectacular everywhere. But everywhere she will be comfortable, we shall understand in more detail.
Roses of any kind and selection prefer an open, protected zone from drafts, northerly winds, stagnant water and constant dampness. Also, when choosing, consider the location of groundwater - their proximity is extremely undesirable for shtambov.
Remember: these tender plants do not like sun and feel bad in the shade. In such extreme conditions, they get burned or dragged out strongly, losing their attractiveness. 
The best option for culture is the penumbra on the south side, somewhere near the fence or the room.
Important! Buy seedlings only in containers that are at least 24 cm high, where there is a wet and fresh substrate. Moss, weeds and dried earthen room indicate poor care of the shtamb.
Planting a standard rose
Choosing the right place and a healthy seedling is only half of the successful cultivation of pink trees. For their quick rooting and full-growing vegetation, it is necessary to prepare the terrain, planting material and not be mistaken with the terms of all the planned works. Let's figure out how to grow a standard rose in the step-by-step instructions below.
Optimal timing
Unconditionally, the best period for planting roses is spring. It is important to wait until the land on the site warms up above 15 degrees, and the weather is stable and warm outside.
Rose growers, citing their many years of experience in growing standard and bush forms, recommend rooting in the last decade of April until mid-May. 
Considering the fact that the purchased seedlings in most cases are realized with a closed root system, it is allowed to plant stem roses throughout the warm season. In the summer, such specimens require abundant and regular moisture.
Important! If you want to create your own shtamb, choose a rosehip as the stock, which at the genetic level is able to withstand cold weather, diseases and harmful insects. The selected sample must have a strong rhizome and tall, flexible shoots.
Site preparation
All the preparatory work in this case, plan in the fall. They consist in deep plowing and fertilizing the land. For boles, as well as for other grafted samples, soil conditions do not play a big role.
Of course, plants need loose substrates enriched with nutrients to stimulate growth. Roses feel most comfortable on light loamswhich are diluted with river sand, peat, compost and organic matter during the preparation process.
But if the situation goes beyond the classical, then to adjust the depleted problem areas will need special agronomic knowledge. 
Experts advise on the enriched chernozem after dropping to make clay, and in places where there is a clear lack of phosphorus - a solution from mullepot infusion, bone meal and superphosphate.
When using the last component, it is important to take into account the acidity of the substrate. In an acidic environment, it is highly undesirable. To neutralize the pH reaction, bone or phosphorus flour will be needed, but the desired result will come only after 3 years.
Did you know? The warriors of ancient Rome revered rose buds as a symbol of courage and courage, so they considered it a great honor to be awarded a wreath of roses instead of a helmet.
Sandy substrate, which is not very favorable for standard roses, differs in friability, air and water permeability, it quickly heats up, but has a small amount of micronutrients.
On such a site you will need to add 2 parts of clay and turf ground, ground into powder, and a little bit of humus will not interfere either.
If you are dealing with loams, when kneading in your hand, a lump of earth quickly crumbles and easily breaks up into small lumps that do not stick together. Such land is available good aeration and many nutrients. Improve the substrate with three parts of coarse sand, compost and sod soil. 
Heavy clayey areas require special attention, in which the earth does not let air and water badly, stray into lumps, dry for a long time, and having lost moisture, it cracks heavily.
Paint a picture of the constituent minerals that the plant needs at all stages of the growing season. But young and immature roots will be hard to break through the knocked down piles.
It is possible to correct the terrain with the help of a soil mixture from an equal amount of sod and leaf land, humus and compost.
Important! To feed roses of any varietal and species variety is recommended by horse or cow dung, which has been perevaloval for 2 years. As an alternative, you can use biohumus obtained from organic matter in the process of vital activity of earthworms..
If your choice fell on the area where the roses had previously grown, but for some reason they died, during the preparation you will need to remove about 70 cm of the upper layer and make a mound of fresh soil mixture.
This is necessary to reduce the risks of infection of shtambov diseases and pests of predecessors. In the case of bulk earth, you will need to dig up the area twice to achieve its breathability. 
A seedling must also be prepared for planting. Depending on its varietal features, the crown is shortened and a plastic bag with moistened moss is put on it. This is done in order to protect the top of the tree from drying during the rooting period.
Optimal scheme
Roses do not like crowding. It is comfortable for them to develop at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other. If you are planning to develop bush forms near the shtamb, take into account the height and diameter of the crown of both.
Indeed, often, without having calculated the volumes of neighboring plants, gardeners complain that low-growing varieties are lost in the composition.
Did you know? The largest exporter of roses in the world is the Netherlands.
For rooting standard roses prepare a groove with a height and width of 70 cm. The dimensions of the pit can be varied depending on the rhizome. He should not be in the hole closely. 
Then, in the middle, a strong support is driven into the half-meter depth, the height of which should be below the trunk.
The bottom is first loosened with forks, and then covered with expanded clay. Then pour a mound of 5 cm in height from mixed turf, hardwood, peat, sand and clay.
The ingredients are added depending on the characteristics of the soil composition, as we have already mentioned above. The classic version provides for equal amounts of compost, clay, turf and hardwood land. 
When the pit is ready, the earthen clod with the trunk has been removed from the container and placed carefully into it. Top sprinkled with fertile substrate, watered and carefully tamp the hole. Pay attention that the root neck is 4-5 cm deep. 
In contrast to the bush forms, standard roses at the end of planting do not spud loose earth, but tie the branches with fabric tape to the support in two places. 
When the rose takes root, the film is removed. And take shelter better in the evening or on cloudy weather. In such conditions, the plant is easier to survive the temperature change.
Important! Some housewives advise instead of a bag with wet moss to spread around the buds and along the shoots of wet cotton wool and within 10 days to monitor the level of humidity.
Combination with other plants
In the garden or in the garden, a rose, like a precious stone, will decorate any place. But not all plants are friendly toward these prickly neighbors. The specialists do not recommend to combine with them chamomile, asparagus, rudbeckia.
Better to choose a tandem of lavender, geranium, stonecrop, sage, undersized bells. Also shtaby are good with annuals: lobelia, ageratum, petunia. Some experimenters compose roses with a maned barley or a gray-headed fescue.
Experienced rose growers are advised to take into account the volume of the perennial root system when creating compositions with young standard roses.
Often the neglect of this detail leads to the displacement of weak seedlings. This undesirable effect can be obtained every time you place plants in cramped quarters. Only the strong will survive. 
Did you know? Virtually all women's cosmetics include to some extent rose oil.
Care Tips
Standard roses differ from their fellows in demanding conditions. During the entire growing season, the level of moisture in the soil, its looseness and nutritional value play an important role.
Particular attention should be paid to tying trunks to supports, preparing for winter and preventive measures against diseases and pests. Analyze all the details of care.
Watering, weeding and loosening
Water-loving culture throughout the warm season need to ensure regular watering. Immediately after planting, the stumps, so that their crown does not dry out, are placed in a moist environment.
The pristvolny circles moisten, even when the top layer of soil has not dried yet. Many owners facilitate the process of drip installations. If this is not possible, for each mature plant you need to pour at least 20 liters of water. 
And this is done in special grooves near the roots, which at the end of the procedure are sealed with a rake. Sprinkling for shtambov is fraught with burns and the death of weak branches, so it’s better not to resort to this method.
Important! Roses that bloom twice during the season (remontant), need to cut off the old inflorescences just below 2 pairs of leaves. This nuance accelerates the subsequent budding.
Weeds are not the place in the rose garden, because they suck out useful trace elements from the soil depths, depriving the nutrition of flowers. In addition, these thickets look unaesthetic.
Roses feel good in loose soft earth. Therefore, it is necessary to make it so with the help of hoes, regular weeding and mulch. 
To curb weeds and prevent evaporation of moisture under the shafts lined with peat, compost, humus or a mixture of the above components. Mulch pristvolnye circles preferably in the spring before the foliage.
Garter to the support
As the boom develops, you will need replace the original support for a stronger one. It should be made of durable material: metal, plastic, fiberglass or wood.
It is installed on the opposite side from the slope of the trunk, departing 10 cm from it. The pot roses will also need additional props so that during a gust of wind the containers do not overturn under the weight of the branches. 
It is possible to fasten branches to the support with tape, foam rubber, cloth patches that will not injure the plant. This is done in such a way that the shoots do not slip and rub against the garter.
Most often, the mount is formed as an eight just below the vaccine. It is unacceptable that the shoots should be rubbed at the place of the garter, as this will cause significant damage to the crown. 
Important! Before planting a container with a standard rose, it is necessary to pour clay-manure liquid over it by adding a glass of Heteroauxin solution (1 tablet per bucket of water) to it.
Fertilization
During the growing season, roses need only 2 dressings. The first is relevant in the spring, and the second - after flowering. Young specimens are fertilized immediately after planting.
As fertilizer, you can use the purchased mineral complex means or rotted manure and humus. Organics are usually laid out annually in pristvolnyh circles in a thin layer.
Adult shtambam need up to 6 kg of substance per square meter. For good growth, roses are needed: potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and magnesium. To the above substances are easily digested, they are made in a moist soil. 
Preventive treatment
Spray and standard forms of roses cause sympathy not only among people. Shchitovki, caterpillars, aphid, mites, earwigs and other harmful insects love to feast on the juice and young fibers of these plants.
They are also very sensitive to attacks of pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Immune resistance to parasites and microorganisms depends on the genetic characteristics of the stock and the grafted variety.
Did you know? Scientists have discovered a thousand-year-old rose bush near the cathedral in the German town of Gildersheim. The plant is considered the oldest member of the family, and its whips have already reached the top of the building.
In order to prevent attacks of pests, experts advise at the beginning of the growing season to treat standard roses with insecticides ("Aktara", "Rose Сlear", "Bi-58 New"). These drugs will help and at the first signs of the life of parasites.
Among the diseases of the culture threatens all sorts of rot, spotting, virus mosaic and chlorosis.To protect your beloved from this misfortune, regularly inspect the foliage and stems, in time remove all the affected areas, not allowing further spread of pathogens. 
As a preventive measure, sprinkling with dissolved ferrous sulfate is appropriate. The working solution is prepared in clay or glass containers at the rate of 4 liters of substance per 14 liters of water.
Re-treatment is desirable after 4 weeks. For large foci of infection will need the help of fungicides.
Much more difficult is the situation with viral infections, which are almost impossible to cure. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of garden tools, always disinfect tools before cutting the crown and prevent harmful insects from entering the garden.
Did you know? Wild roses adapt to any climatic conditions, there are varieties that grow exclusively in the zone of the North Pole.
Pruning
Every gardener who takes on a pruner should understand that his main task is an plant cleaning damaged by frost, disease and insect sprouts, as well as removal of sprouts around the trunk and forming a rounded regular crown.
In the spring, work is carried out, taking into account the varietal characteristics of the grafted variety. For example, nursery experts advise not to cut short miniature roses, floribunda, hybrid tea. They need to leave at least 6 buds. 
If you break this rule and cut branches at the level of the 2-4th bud, you will get a deformed shape with powerful tall side shoots.
If you are dealing with a climbing garden group, cut out the skeletal shoots that bloomed last year, and the young ones only shorten slightly.
When young shoots are not present, do not remove the old whip completely, but only slightly cut off the tops on their side branches. A similar haircut is suitable for groundcover varieties.
All slices need to be sharp disinfected with potassium permanganate instrument. Ideally, the blade should go half a centimeter higher from the kidney. Sections with a diameter of more than 1 cm are necessarily sealed with garden pitch.
Important! Always remove wild shoots from shtamba that appear in the grafting sites. It grows intensively, it is distinguished by its high spikeiness and small foliage. If you overlook, the tops will drown the crown.
Preparing for the winter
It is necessary to begin preparation for cold weather in advance, without waiting for the first frosts. Approximately at the beginning of October or a couple of weeks earlier, branches are cut according to the varietal characteristics of the grafted variety.
Young shoots that did not have time to form and ripen, removed entirely. Otherwise, they will not be able to spend the winter and will lead to severe injury to the tree.
Experts advise roses from the group of hybrid tea and floribunda to shorten by 40 cm. On cascading and climbing small-color samples, pruning is carried out gently, barely touching the tops. 
In the preparation process, you must remove all the leaves from the crown, dig up the stem on one side and tilt it to the ground. Then a metal hook driven into the ground is fixed to the trunk in this position.
Some gardeners recommend laying a log at its base to avoid rifts.
We can not allow the crown to fall on the bare ground. Under it are spruce branches, and on top they are covered with plastic wrap. The rhizome is hidden under a mound of dry substrate (some are done with the same crown). In winter, the structure with the standard rose spud snow.
All shelters can be removed only when warm weather is established and the threat of spring frosts is over. Usually this period falls in the middle of April. If tightened, the plant will die. 
Important! In order for the buds on the roses to acquire deeper, bright tones, they are fed with clay, which has passed through the winter frosts, and then dried under the summer heat.
Be prepared that it is much more difficult to grow a stab rose yourself than a bush form. In addition, it will take a lot of time and effort.
About 3 years will be needed only in order to get a quality rose hips. But, when the plant blooms, you will see that the resources spent are worth it.
